South Africa: Lionheart atop Lion’s Head

Wednesday, December 12
Long Street
South Africa Museum and Planetarium
Lion’s Head hike
Devil’s Peak Brewing

It just becomes a chill morning and I don’t get out of the house until midday. The big event is meeting up with Cherub and Soup Nazi to hike up Lion’s Head, one of Cape Town’s prominent peaks that makes up the City Bowl. Lion’s Head is of course the head and Signal Hill is the Lion’s rump.

The hike up is fairly gradual as it wraps around the mountain. And then there’s no more wrapping and there’s only up the sandstone. If you’re going to boulder up a mountain, might as well head straight up. There’s a few spots with chains and metal foot holds but otherwise you’re on your own. I manage to get in a jam with my foot in the wrong spot and after remaneuvering my feet, Soup Nazi helps me up.

Remember, here’s the view of Lion’s Head from Table Mountain

I even get to see my first Dassie which runs off when I try to take its picture! They kind of look like a marmot but, kid you not, their closest relative is the elephant. I watch the Dassie for a bit and I can see how their snout resembles that of an elephants.

Eventually we make it to the top and it’s 360 degree views. Camps and Clifton Bays, Sea Point, the V&A Waterfront and the whole seaport, city central, Devil’s Peak, Table Mountain. This view is definitely better than that atop Table Mountain! The sky is doing all sorts of amazing things as the sun starts to set and we snap our obligatory selfie. I’m a little worried about the traverse down but if the ladies in front of us carrying their purses can do, so can I. I’m having flashbacks to Mt. Zion’s Angels Landing and trying to tell myself if I can do that, then I can certainly do this.

The clouds descending upon Table Mountain

With PCT 2013 besties Cherub and Soup Nazi

Cherub and Soup Nazi undoubtedly fighting about the PCT

We meet up with Cherub’s sister Dayle at Devil’s Peak Brewery and it’s quiz night there. I get their strongest IPA which is maybe 6% and it actually has some hop aroma and flavor. Not too shabby considering the dismal beer selection her in SA.

Thursday, December 13
Hout Bay and Seal Island
Hard Rock Cafe in Camps Bay
District 6 and SA Jewish Museums

It’s an earlier start so I can catch the closest bus stop at Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden. Good thing I’m early because the bus rolls through about five minutes before its listed first departure time. We skirt the stunning Constantia wineries and then cross through one of the few Cape afromontane forests before arriving in Hout Bay.

I get my ticket out to Seal Island and then we push through the deep waves to leave the bay. It’s a short but stunning trip. Just to get out in the water and get a different perspective is refreshing.

I grab a free burger at the Hard Rock Cafe in Camps Bay before making my way back downtown for some museum time. District 6 and then South Africa’s Jewish Museums. The District 6 museum is set in an old methodist church and is very beautiful. It’s a wonderful, yet sad, trip through the history of District 6. At least 60,000 people were forcible removed from their homes during Apartheid.

I’m on the ‘free’ kick so I head up Long St. to Beerhouse for my free sampler. It turns out to be 12 beers which are all mostly shit. And some of them I refuse to touch. In fact, some I’m pretty sure, are not beers at all. Soup Nazi’s got the line on some good food nearby and he’s not joking. Chicken Tikka Masala with rice and naan and dal, plus a water for R80 ~$5.75 USD. And it’s two meals worth even though I might have eaten most of it. Soups gives me tips of travel in Zam, Zim, Uganda and Rwanda. Hopefully our paths will cross in Durban too!