Monday, July 15
Humboldt Redwoods State Park
Unmarked Trailhead across from Burlington Campground
16.17 miles
3,482′ ascent
3,570′ descent
Grasshopper Peak 3,388′
Unceded lands on the Sinkyone peoples
It’s set to be a long, hot day so we’re on the road by 7 am. The Hiking Humboldt V1 directions take us along the slow, and yet scenic Avenue of the Giants route. Really gets ya in the mood. Do a few stretches and then we depart from the unmarked roadside trailhead across from Burlington Campground a few minutes before 8 am.
Luckily, the seasonal bridge across the South Fork of the Eel River is in place, which saves us a swim. The still pool is like glass reflecting the early morning rays on the trees. We tread south just above the river and take extra care to dodge the poison oak. We make a right turn and start climbing up through mixed conifer forest. We stop for a quick snack and pee break and are instantly under attack by hundreds of mosquitoes. We dash up the trail with the cloud following close behind.
After a few hours of climbing, we take a short standing break in a strong beam of sunlight. We welcome the heat as this is our only reprieve from the mosquitoes. The climb is relentless and there’s no slowing down because the hungry mosquitoes are still tagging along. I can see the Grasshopper Fire Tower through a window in the forest and we still have another 1,000 ft. until the summit.
About 11 am we emerge from the forest into the open, rolling hillside. The dry grass crackles in the heat and I can smell the large, fragrant California Bay trees. We cross into the singed forest briefly as we make the final push to the summit. A single grey squirrel flicks its tail in support.
We arrive to nearly 360 degree views. There’s a small grove of trees to the North blocking a small wedge of the view. There’s one little spot along a ridge way out to the East that looks like cat ears.
East Aspect. Arrow through the pictures L-R = North to South
West Aspect. L-R = South to North
Lunch is a luxurious hour in the shade of the fire watch tower. Pizza and chips and nuts and some bad store-bought angel food cake. Summit rice crispy treats really hits the spot though. StickPic summit photos and don’t forget the serious one. Uncertain about the faint trail leading off the edge of Grasshopper Peak, we retrace our steps back down the road.
We pass by the aromatic bays and brittle thistles and drop back down into the forest. It’s amazing how hiking the same path is so different just by changing the direction.
We plod along deep in discussion, when suddenly there is a loud crashing from the forest just ahead. We stop in our tracks and call out “hey there, hey bear” even though we’re not sure who’s clattering about. The forest is silent as we stand and wait. We eventually start moving forward on high alert, making loud and obvious conversation. The forest is still silent as we round a bend in the road. About 15 seconds later I hear what definitely sounds like something climbing the bark of a tree. I stop and scan the trees off to my right side. After several seconds, I see a black bear cub descending a tree. I immediately turn around and walk in a quick pace while trying not to run. I catch up with Erin and say “we’re going, we’re going….but we’re not running.” We grow eyes in the backs of our heads for at least the next quarter mile, thinking that mama bear may emerge at any second.
Another quarter mile down the road, there’s a small, cool pool of water that must be fed by a spring. I don’t remember seeing it on the way up and it certainly seems to be the only water in the area. No wonder the bears are hanging out here! Just before our little bear adventure I had been thinking about how the squirrel was the only animal I’d seen during the hike today.
Today was warm but not killer hot. I’m grateful that the mosquitoes have taken the afternoon off from their hunt. After the long descent, Erin dips her feet into the cool Eel as the distant thunder clouds billow.
Journey Return 