Thursday, September 5
Wonderland Trail Day #2
Start: Devil’s Dream Camp
Stop: Klapatche Park Camp
10.54 miles
3,722’ ascent
3,186’ descent
As usual, I toss and turn all night but mostly sleep well. I don’t have an alarm set and let daylight wake me. I don’t hear any sounds of life from my neighbors as I roll into action about 6:20 am. Devil’s Dream really was a dream. Silent without the sound of rushing water and the tent is nice and dry this morning. Even my wet socks that were stuffed inside my sleeping bag all night are only slightly damp now. I removed the insoles from the shoes and even my shoes are dry.
I roll out of camp about 7:20 am and still not a peep from my neighbors. I climb slightly and find the rest of the camps scattered along the hillside. A couple is enjoying breakfast in some luxurious chairs. I top out at a meadow that’s wet with mosquitoes buzzing. Wow, there’s Tahoma glowing in the morning sun. But is that haze or smoke in the air? Regardless, early morning hiking hours are the best! The light is perfect and I have the trail all to myself. I find a chipmunk that looks like it’s sleeping in the middle of the trail. I half expect it to jump awake as I peer in for a closer look.
After weaving through the rolling meadows, the trail turns sharply down and I switchback to the roaring Tahoma Creek. Luckily there is a long suspension bridge anchored high above the water. As I step onto the Tahoma Suspension Bridge it bounces up and down. I slowly pick my way across as I move with every vibration of the bridge. I pull out my phone for a few pictures while being desperately careful not to drop my phone or my poles!
What goes down must go back up. I climb up through the warm forest before topping out and crossing a dry alpine ridge. It’s hot enough that I seek out the shade of a small tree to take a snack break. One last push puts me standing on the edge of the massive and awe inspiring Tahoma glacier and drainage basin. I can hear and see the many waterfalls flowing out the glacier terminus. The wash is a mixture of gray and yellowish-orange colored rocks.
Not far into the descent towards South Puyallop River, I meet a ranger who most definitely wants to check my permit. She goes through all my pages and different reservations confirming my whole itinerary and says I have a nice trip. When I confirm that I live in Arcata, she tells me that she went to HSU and her sister lives there now. I ask her about the now obvious smoke that has started to fill the air. She thinks that winds have shifted and are bringing smoke from the East. I ask a few more questions about her job and tell her I appreciate her.
Sometimes it’s easy trail and sometimes it’s just rocks. I know I’m near the bottom of the descent and find a nice stream to have lunch next to. I large spider bounces in a web not far from me as I fill up my water bottle with ice cold water. I finally come to the South Puyallup River crossing which is actually a short wooden bridge because the canyon is almost like a slot canyon. The heat is intense as I start the long climb out of the canyon. I’m so grateful for the forest but there are still some exposed sections.
Almost three miles before camp, I have a decision to make. Get the last water here or wait until just before tonight’s camp and get what is likely yucky lake water. I decide to do the hard work of hauling extra water up the remainder of this climb. I climb into the brush for the little trickle of water pouring off some mossy rocks. It’s not an easy fill as I try to balance myself among the rocks. I camel up on some electrolyte water and turn myself uphill. I finally top out on the ridge and I start to get a few inReach messages cheering me on. They lift my spirits and help me push on under the 7lbs of water that I’m carrying. Everyone is there to say hi…Canada Jay, Sooty Grouse and American Pika.
The surely spectacular views of Tahoma are masked by the wall of smoke that has settled in. Saint Andrews Lake looks sad and leaves much to be desired. I walk to the edge of the lake and feel the fairly warm water while watching 50 tadpoles swim off. My extra hard work has paid off! The trail takes a sharp left turn and there are flowers and butterflies in every direction. There are so many great spangled fritillary butterflies working the cascade asters that their efforts are audible. The lake next to Klapatche Park, Aurora Lake, has virtually dried up and is definitely not a favorable water option.
I’m the second into Klapatche Park Camp (5,515 ft.) at about 4:30 pm and get cushy camp #2. I’ve got my own private balcony and dining bench. There’s a wonderful log round to sit on and write by blog and eat dinner. The group of guys that I saw yesterday at Pyramid Creek start to roll in and they look exhausted and a tad beat. I’m feeling bad that I have such a large site and offer some space if they need it. Getting to camp early is a nice luxury and with my chores complete, I’m ready for bed by 8pm. The setting sun turns reddish-orange and through a small window in the trees I can see Tahoma glowing.
Pros:
Shorter day given the elevation gain/loss and heat
Heavy water carry to avoid warm lake water
Uplifting messages from friends
Friendly ranger
Tahoma Glacier
Cons:
Smoke
Accidentally missing Devil’s Pipe Organ columnar andesite
Journey Return 