Journey Return

Thursday, April 10
Skunk Cabbage Trail to Mussel Point
California Coastal Trail Humboldt Section 2
Redwood National and State Parks
Unceded land of the Yurok Tribe
11 miles
1,566′ ascent
1,497′ descent

The sky slowly brightens as I drive North. The Roosevelt Elk are working early in the fields near the highway. I turn onto Robinson Road and arrive at an empty parking lot. On the way in, I look out with fond memories at the bog that I attempted to cross in January. I get myself all clipped into my backpack and hit the trail just minutes after 7:30 am.

At first the trail is muddy but then turns into a never-ending maze of roots. The audible skunk cabbage creek flows off to my right and there are probably hundreds of thousands of skunk cabbage plants in this canyon. The trail is wet enough that many grow along the trail’s edge as well.

After hiking about a mile an elk and I startle each other. It runs up the bank to a ledge above the trail. I take several steps down the trail and then in a touron moment, decide that I probably could get a nice picture. I unclip my sony camera from my shoulder strap but before I can get it ready, the elk it moving towards me along the ledge above the trail. I clip my camera back onto my strap and move down the trail to get some distance between us. It’s so strange but it looks like the elk’s antlers have been sawed off near its head. Next thing I know, the elk trots down the bank and is now on the trail right behind me. I start shouting NO and clicking my poles together. But the young bull elk is not deterred and continues to follow me. I keep shouting NO and click my poles together above me head while trying to put some space between me and the elk. I move quickly but without running and without turning my back. I’m curious about its antlers so I risk getting a picture. The elk is getting closer to me and I give a real loud “hyah” and click my poles together. Finally, this is enough to startle him and he bolts off towards the boggy, skunk cabbage filled canyon. I move quickly down the trail while constantly keeping an eye behind me.

I hike about another half mile and then come up on another elk that is a short distance off trail. It’s much larger and luckily, it’s happy to just stare at me and not commence pursuit. I can see that its antlers are short as well and I finally realize that they haven’t been sawed off but are just starting to grow for the season.

As I climb up the canyon, I find fresh trail work that has cleared and cut some trees. The wood chips seem pretty fresh and there still is the faint smell of cut wood in the air. The trickle has diminished but I can still hear skunk cabbage creek to my right.

At 9 am and the 2.6 mile mark, I reach the overlook which has a decent view of the ocean and a nice bench for a breakfast break. I’m so hungry that I eat two bars and drink some of my mocha while listening to the crashing waves.

The trail to the beach climbs steeply as I immediately meet several trees across the trail. I guess the much appreciated trail work stopped at the outlook. There’s a section of wild or fringed bleeding hearts and a solo foxglove. I manage to climb through them all before popping out onto a ridge.

The ridge trail trends downwards and sometimes has short switchbacks where I reach another lookout point.

I briefly go off trail to check out a little no name creek. The canyon walls are not as steep but it’s like a small fern canyon. The dark and overgrown trees on the bluff directly above the ocean are blasted into a 45-degree angle. You can imagine the beating they take as each storm blows in.

As the trail switchbacks down to the beach, I push past lush lupine blooms just before 10:30 am. The Skunk Cabbage Trail officially turns right and heads North up the beach to Gold Bluffs Beach. But I opt to head South to Mussel Point. The beach is littered with sea rafts, also called Velella valella or by-the-wind sailors. Their desiccated bodies blow past me in the constant wind. By-the-wind sailors are free-floating hydrozoan that live on the surface of the open ocean. They move by ocean currents and wind. They are a colonial hydroid but not a true jellyfish. During strong wind events they blow onshore to their death. It’s kinda nuts to be at the absolute mercy of the wind and only be able to go where it sends you. If you have Instagram, check out this cool video and summary.

I look back towards the bluff that I just descended before I start down the beach. I notice that all the little tufts of grass have whipped around in the wind and have formed perfect semi-circles in the sand. It’s beautiful ocean views up and down the beach and the afternoon rain clouds are starting to roll in.

I climb through the awesome metamorphic rocks that are stacked up on the beach with Mussel Point just ahead. Mussel Point is considered to be part of the Monterey Formation which is composed of organic-rich marine deposits.

I always try to keep my eyes open for harbor seals and I’m rewarded by one popping its head up to say hello.

The waves crash onto the front of Mussel Point. I’m tempted to climb up onto the front of it but decide not to push my luck. I turn around and head back North finding all new sights. Water fanning out from the crumbling slope and fresh bear prints. I scan the hillside for any movement. I collect unique pebbles, wood, and shell treasures and put them in my pocket.

The long beach can be a bit hypnotizing so I’m grateful that there’s a big sign for the Coastal Trail on the bluff. The round trip to Mussel Point is about 2.5 miles and I can definitely feel it in my shins. The skies have turned gray as I turn back up the Skunk Cabbage Section of the Coastal Trail. One more glance at the ocean before powering up the trail at noon.

I push enough to have the sweat soaking into the brim of my hat. There’s a few old redwood relic stumps that look out of place in this harsh environment. I climb back through the blowdowns, then past the first outlook and start descending the canyon. I come up on elk #2 in the trail and luckily he is keen on running away down the trail. I don’t see where he goes so I start talking out loud, having a whole one-sided conversation with my elk friend. LOL. I’m on high alert for elk #1 in case he has any ideas about taking me out this time around. I never see him but notice tracks several times in the trail where an elk has obviously taken a long sliding step. I marvel at the vast never-ending skunk cabbage and notice that their distinct aroma seems stronger than this morning. I also see dog tracks in the mud. Seems like there must have been another hiker out here today but dogs are definitely not allowed. Shame on them. Elk tracks sliding in the mud and off-leash dog chasing elk? I arrive back at a still empty parking lot at about 1:50 pm. I throw my pack into my truck, chug some water, grab a bar and head into Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park for more hiking.