Saturday, May 24
Start: Pucacocha 15,214′ (4637m)
Via: Abra Apacheta 16,184′ (4933m)
Via: Abra Warmisaya 16,462′ (5018m)
Via: Surine Cocha 15,768′ (4806m)
Via: Vinicunca or Montaña de Siete Colores 16,532′ (5039m)
Stop: Surine Cocha 15,768′ (4806m)
8.18 miles
3,103′ ascent
2,480′ descent
O2 87%
46% acclimated to 15,768′, fully acclimated to 8,694′
I fall asleep about 8:30 pm. I resist as long as possible before I break out of my tent that’s virtually frozen shut. I get up at 1 am to crunch the short distance to the bathroom tent under the clear and star-studded sky. Overall, my body has adjusted to the routine and I wake up well-rested. Knowing that I need a little extra time to sort myself in the morning, I set my alarm for 4:30 am for 5:30 am breakfast.
After a hearty breakfast, we start our gradual ascent towards Abra Apacheta Pass just after 6 am. We join a faint tread above camp and climb uphill across the rolling terrain as the sunlight starts to glint off the surrounding peaks.
We ascend laterally as the tents below us reduce to mere dots on the landscape. We reach a point where we start to sort of switchback upwards. A guide with a client on a horse pass us as I notice a few other hikers approaching from behind. As we near Apacheta Pass, the guide is headed back down the trail, now with an empty horse. We top Apacheta about 7:40 am and the wind is really ripping. The client that was on the horse is there waiting for the rest of his group. Another client soon arrives on the horse along with the rest of their group.
Ronnie and I ascend above the pass where there are puma and condor statues. I think the serpent statue must be in progress. Reminder, the condor, puma and serpent are the three main sacred animals which represent the Inca trilogy of worlds. The condor represents the upper world, sky and heavens. The puma represents the earth realm. The serpent represents the under or inner world and place of rebirth.
We don’t hang out long and start our descent about 7:50 am passing a colorful outcrop of purple Astragalus or milkvetch.
After about 20 minutes we stop at a trail junction. To get to Rainbow Mountain or Montaña de Siete Colores we must take a right turn towards Warmisaya Pass. We rest for about 10 minutes for a pee and snack break. Just as we finish our break, the Mountain Gods Peru team and horses catch up with us and turn up the canyon. Notice the distinct change in geology with red-colored soil rich in iron oxides.
Above: Looking left down the Alcatauri Gorge, where we will return tomorrow.
Below: Looking right, up Alcatauri Gorge towards Warmisaya Pass, the little notch to the left of the pointed peaks.
We ascend past small lakes and roaming alpaca herds towards the red-roofed Anantapata Lodge. A barking dog runs over to us as it maintains its patrol perimeter.
We pause briefly at some bathrooms and Ronnie chats with another guide. It’s about 9:40 am and the sun is really starting to beat down on us. Ronnie mentions that he does not enjoy this climb to Warmisaya Pass. I can feel it too as we slowly trudge up the canyon. Ronnie points out a mini rainbow mountain above us. We reach a point where the lateral trail transitions to a kind of switchback climb and up we go.
We weave upwards for at least 30 minutes. I pause briefly and notice that a spectacular lake has come into view against the backdrop of Apu Takusiri. 17,552 foot Takusiri is just a tiny mountain against the massive, snow-covered 20,945 foot Ausangate behind it. A beam of sunlight makes the glacial turquoise lake really pop.
And then suddenly, a gift from the gods. The silhouette of a large condor soars over Apu Takusiri and we are connected with the sacred. Thank you for the message of strength.
A few more switchbacks and then we crest Warmisaya Pass about 10:45 am. We take a short break as another group with horses arrives. I love the curly hair on the lead, chestnut-colored horse. Or maybe it’s a mule? Either way, truly beautiful. I look across the horizon that’s filling with big clouds and can see the upper part of Rainbow Mountain. If only I could just float straight across!
We start the descent towards Surine Cocha about 11 am, passing some beautiful creeping Poposa Xenophyllum poposum, known for its medicinal qualities.
The Mountain Gods Peru team already has camp setup and they are working on lunch preparations. I have time to arrange things in my tent and reduce the contents of my backpack to a minimum for the hike to Rainbow Mountain. We eat a beautiful spread of food before resuming our hike about 1 pm.
We skirt around Surine Cocha where there is a Giant coot pair swimming around a small island. We climb above the lake as several other camps around the lake are being set up.
About 1:30 pm it hails on us with hail large enough to sting when it hits my skin. Luckily, it’s only a brief blast.
Motion catches my eye in the rocks next to the trail as a small animal scurries around. I get my camera ready just in case it decides to reappear. For a split second, a Jelski’s Antiplano mouse Abrothrix jelskii runs out before disappearing back into the rocks again. This ornate grass mouse is native to the Andean antiplano and is known to be diurnal. Unfortunately, my picture is not in focus but you can get a sense of how soft this sweet little mouse must be.
We continue our gentle climb towards Rainbow Mountain as I can hear ATVs in the distance. I see them driving slowly up the road from the main parking area. Most of the people that visit Rainbow Mountain do it as a day trip from Cusco and arrive earlier in the morning. From the area where the ATVs park, Ronnie and I take a trail cut that heads high up.
Rainbow Mountain comes into full view about 2:15 pm and it is spectacular. Since it’s later in the day, the crowds have mostly dispersed. Big clouds play across the sky as the wind rips. There’s a woman who sells photos with her alpacas and Ronnie gives me a few soles for the opportunity. We climb the short distance to the very top of Vinicunca. The wind creates a light show across the mountains as the clouds zip between us and the sun.
Vinicunca or Winikunka comes from the Quechua language where wini translates to rumi meaning stone. This refers to the small, rounded black stones that are characteristic of the region. Kunka translates to neck, referring to the narrow mountain pass that traverses the valley. Its seven distinct colors are due to different mineral compositions:
pink – clay, mud and sand
white – silica, sandstone, calcium carbonate
red – iron-rich claystone
green – phyllites, clays rich in ferromagnesian
brown and purple – limonites and marls
earthy brown – magnesium conglomerate
mustard yellow – sulfurous sandstone
Turns out that our chef Julio is up here too, perhaps to find some cell service. We all brace against the blast of the piercing cold wind that keeps flipping up the edge of Ronnie’s hat. It’s hard to move our frozen faces into a smile. I guess I’m too much in the moment because I forget to take a video from atop Vinicunca, 16,532 feet.
I hike all the way down to the base where the rainbow layers start. There’s still a few tourists but the ATV guides are calling them back. All the little stands that must sell drinks and other items are closed up for the day. I take a few moments and admire the colored layers up close.
Left: Approaching the base of Rainbow Mountain
Right: Looking back up from where I’ve just descended
Julio comes down and joins me as I start to hike the lower trail back towards the ATV parking area. Ronnie must still be up top trying to make some calls as Julio and I join the road cut back to camp about 2:50 pm. Even though my Spanish is very limited, I understand that Julio has been sick and that’s why he’s been whispering with no voice. The clouds in the distance are very dark as the mountain sides are sprayed with white.
It’s dinner time for the Andean crested ducks as they bob their heads in a lake. Ronnie catches up with us as we reach the cliff above Surine Cocha and camp. The dark clouds are getting closer as the thunder rolls hard.
We descend and hike around the perimeter of Surine Cocha about 3:30 pm. There’s a guide with a few clients that are just now leaving for Rainbow Mountain. Yikes! We get back to camp and I crawl into my tent. I change out of my hiking clothes and add layers for the evening. About 4 pm it starts to hail, and it doesn’t stop for a whole hour.
Just after 5 pm I emerge from my tent to check the scenery and to head to the mess tent for happy hour popcorn and hot chocolate. Wow, it’s white in every direction for as far as I can see. Hmmm, wonder what happened to the guys headed to Rainbow Mountain? I wonder if they were able to get there before it got covered in white. Ronnie comments that even the people traveling from Cusco tomorrow might not get to see the rainbows since the hail is unlikely to melt.
It’s cold sitting through snack happy hour and dinner and I happily head back to my tent to get in my sleeping bag. They also fix a velour hot water bottle for me which feels so good against my ice cold feet. A little journal time and then sleep.
Journey Return 