Humboldt Redwoods Day 1: Bull Creek Flats Loop and Johnson Camp to Grasshopper Peak

Wednesday, June 11
Humboldt Redwoods State Park
Unceded land of the Sinkyone
Start: Bull Creek Flats Trailhead (western most starting location)
Stop: Grasshopper Peak via Johnson Camp
19.73 miles
3,965′ ascent
1,104′ descent

I depart home after 7 am and pull into the Albee Creek Campground about 8:40 am. There is no one at the welcome booth and the campground host is “off duty.” Regardless, I find the little payment envelopes and leave my $10 for two nights of backcountry camps. I turn off of Mattole Road just past Albee Campground onto an unmarked road. There’s one little parking area that states there’s no parking from sunset to 6 am. Then there’s another little parking area without any signs about when you can park there. I park and hope for the best. Luckily, I do see the the Bull Creek Flats Trailhead to my left. About 9:10 am I hit the trail and start down the Bull Creek Flats Trail South.

After just over a mile, I reach the junction with the Tall Trees Loop. I circle around and find that the Giant Tree observation deck is highly damaged and closed.

I follow a sign to the seasonal bridge across Bull Creek. At the edge of the Tall Trees Day Use Parking Area, I take a right turn onto Bull Creek Flats Trail North.

Bull Creek gurgles constantly to my right. I soon arrive at the Blue Slide Day Use Area which has a few picnic tables. I follow a faint tread to the roads edge where luckily there’s a sign to reaffirm my path. I walk in the road for .15 miles. I follow the trail as it dips down over the edge just as a car starts to quickly approach.

There’s quite a bit of poison oak along the trail but it’s avoidable as long as you’re vigilant. Mostly I carry my poles so that I don’t risk running them through the death oak. I weave towards and away from Bull Creek under massive redwoods as a pileated woodpecker sounds good morning. Humboldt Redwoods State Park (and this Rockefeller Forest) has the largest remaining old-growth redwood forest in the world.

I pass cow creek and then on cue I think I hear a cow. As I hike a bit farther, I realize that it’s two redwoods rubbing together in the strong wind.

I come upon some real life Lincoln Logs and it’s hard not to start building. There’s spectacular redwoods in all directions as Bull Creek keeps me company with nonstop pools of sparkling aqua. There’s a private river bar for everyone! I even pass a small section of stone trail that has me reminiscing about the Inca Trail. It’s not built as well of course!

I follow Bull Creek Flats North for almost 4 miles until I reach the Rockefeller Loop. A nice couple offer to take my picture but I take theirs instead. As we part ways I overhear the guy say to his partner that he would never have thought to use panorama to take a picture of a tree. Yep, don’t forget to use vertical panorama too!

“The preservation of this forest was made possible by a gift from John D Rockefeller Jr.,” which was dedicated in 1952. “May those who come here find inspiration and peace in the enduring splendor of these magnificent trees.”

I take the trail down to the confluence of Bull Creek and the South Fork of the Eel River. There’s a seasonal bridge across Bull Creek. I hike in both directions and admire the sparkle of the Eel.

I hike up Bull Creek a short ways and find a nice spot for my turkey sandwich and fritos lunch. The sun is just starting to reach me, which feels good because I’ve got goosebumps on my arms. There’s even some rounded conglomerates all around me.

Just behind me is a faint trail that goes straight up the river bank. I see a pink flag so I decide to check it out. Luckily, it does connect to Bull Creek Flats Trail South. The trail climbs up and away from Bull Creek which has been my constant companion for the last three hours.

I cruise along for 10 minutes before running into a huge downed-tree section. I start to follow a faint trail uphill but then lose it. I push through and under trees with no sign of the trail. I stop and scan the hillside below me where I see the line of the trail emerge. I head downhill and get back on my way.

As I’m trying some silly selfies with a giant tree, a hiker who I’d thought I heard behind me passes. She asks me about why I’m out with my backpack and I explain my plans. She’s doing a short out and back.

After an hour and a half, I can hear Bull Creek again where I find a lovely pool just after a riffle. I pass through a small meadow full of daisies before the trail dips back into the redwood forest. I’m happy to find a spectacular walk-thru tree, which oozes enchanting energy.

About 2:30 pm I hit the junction with Johnson Camp Trail. I make the left turn and start climbing. The grade of the trail is perfect to climb at a nice, steady pace.

After about 30 minutes, I can just barely see Peavine Ridge through the trees. After such steep terrain in Peru a few weeks ago, I’m just super stoked for these switchbacks and a climb that I can cruise through. A Northern Flicker swings by for a quick hello.

I’m sure that I’m almost to Johnson Camp so when I come to the ice cold Connick Creek I stop for a break. It’s just after 4 pm and it’s way too early to stop hiking for the day. I decide to load up on water and make the climb to Grasshopper Peak. That way I can enjoy the sunset and sunrise. I chug a liter of water with electrolyte and eat several bars while a few mosquitoes circle.

About 4:30 pm I arrive at Johnson Camp (1,450′). The word camp seems to be a bit of an overstatement. I stop for a picture and I am immediately mauled by hundreds of mosquitoes. I kind of run around and snap a few pictures as fast as I can. Even though campfires are not allowed, someone decided to have a fire looking straight at the outhouse. The old cabins have collapsed and are returning to the earth. There’s water dripping into the horse trough aka mosquito sanctuary. I exit just as quickly as I arrived and I’m glad to be headed out of mosquito hell.

It’s only three miles to Grasshopper Peak but they are definitely steep. The almost 2,000′ climb follows the Grasshopper Multi Use Trail aka Road. Time seems to move very slowly as I grind uphill. The climb is fairly shaded so the sun beaming through and highlighting some phantom orchids (Cephalanthera austiniae) is quite the sight. With no chlorophyll, this plant relies on symbiotic mycorrhizae for all its nutrients.

About 6:20 pm I drag myself atop Grasshopper Peak and I’m greeted with stellar views in all directions. I sit for almost an hour next to the watch tower while the wind rips by. It’s windy enough that my water bottle has trouble staying upright.

I don’t really want to go all the way down to Grasshopper Camp so I look around for other options. It’s not very flat but will do. I change my clothes and head back up to the tower to eat dinner and watch the sunset.

The fingers of fog slowly creep into the valleys below me. What would otherwise be a peaceful setting, is thrashed by the constant wind. While eating a bar, I decide to get up for a picture. As I snap pictures to the West, I see my gossamer gear pad go flying by. I chase after it and grab it just before it blows over the edge.