Saturday, November 22
Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park
Redwood National and State Parks
Unceded land of the Coastal Yurok Peoples
26.22 miles
2812′ ascent
2759′ descent
9:59:58
I start the drive at 6 am in the dark and the day starts to glow across the still waters of the lagoons. Within the last year, I found myself wondering how many marathons I had hiked over the years. I went back through all my journals and counted up the days that I had hiked over 26 miles. 47, my age. What if I can keep it going and hike one each year? Because damn, turns out I haven’t hiked one in 10 years!
The longest day I’ve ever hiked was the 40 miles into Crater Lake on the Pacific Crest Trail in 2009.. It was dubbed the 40-mile challenge but hindsight has me thinking that we were duped. With so much elevation change, it’s not the best spot for such a challenge. Other top days were:
PCT 2009: Oregon! – 27 miles to push and finally finish California after 4 months of hiking
PCT 2009: The Buffet Setup – 26+ miles to get in position for Mt. Hood’s Timerline Lodge Breakfast Buffet
PCT 2013: Descent – 28 miles with over 7000′ of descent from Mt. San Jacinto
PCT 2013: Will Climb For Beer – 26+ miles to make it to Mt. Hood’s Timberline Lodge Buffet
CDT 2015: The Long Road – 29 miles leaving Pie Town and visit with John and Annie at Thomas Mountain Ranch
CDT 2015: Channeling Ghost O’Keeffe – 28 miles in the land of Georgia O’Keeffe to get to Ghost Ranch
Apparently a common thread on the PCT is making big miles to get to the Timberline Lodge Buffet on Mt. Hood. Well, what can I say? It’s totally worth it and you owe yourself a visit, if you haven’t already!
Ok, back from memory lane to our regularly scheduled programming. I drive through the thin fog layer over the prairie and I’m the first to arrive at Prairie Creek Headquarters. I hit the trail just a few minutes after 7 am and the frigid air pierces my thin armor.
I follow the Davison Trail, shifting my trekking poles between my icy hands. There’s enough small vegetation along the trail/road that my shoes quickly become damp and I can feel the cold push in at my feet. I connect to the road that goes to the Wolf Creek Education Center and notice a tiny mushroom growing atop a slow sign. Hwy 101 is not far away but it’s still early and the roadway is pretty quiet. I can hear Prairie Creek babbling about the lovely morning.
I hiked this route in January, which ended in the tragic loss of my beloved sit pad. I daydream about finding my precious. I hike for an hour before arriving to Davison Road and the Trillium Falls parking lot. I gladly use the restroom before departing from another empty parking lot.
The dirt trail departs from the paved walkway and climbs briefly to Trillium Falls. It feels good to climb and generate a bit of warmth.
I eat a bar and collect water into my small 11 ounce bottle. With daylight being my limiting factor and in an effort to move quickly, I’m only carrying my ZPacks front utility fanny pack today. I have 4 bars, electrolyte mix, 11 oz. bottle of water, meds, a couple bandaides, swiss army manager knife, chapstick, patagonia houdini jacket, Garmin Inreach. Carabinered to the outside is my pee rag. Phone and buff are in my legging side pockets.
I loop around and back to the paved Davison Trail and instead of heading back to the parking lot, I cross the bridge over Prairie Creek. I look out across the prairie/bog but I don’t see any elk. I reach Highway 101 about 9:10 am, turn right, and start walking down the shoulder. After a few minutes, I can hear a car approaching behind me. Since the roadside is not that wide, I step back as far as possible and stand facing the car while it zooms past.
Luckily, it’s still early and there aren’t too many cars. I continue to step back everytime a vehicle approaches. But I do get minutes without vehicles passing and it’s peaceful and wonderful. I can hear the rush of Prairie Creek and the clack of a Belted Kingfisher which makes me smile. I’m happy to see this part of the creek since I only ever drive by too quickly.
At 9:25 am, I reach the dirt Robinson Road which leads to the Skunk Cabbage Trailhead. I look out fondly at the bog that stopped me in January. 3/4 of a mile later I arrive at another empty trailhead. I use the pit toilet and there’s no use closing the door. And it obviously has been open a while given all the leaves that have piled up.
I hit the Skunk Trail/California Coastal Trail Humboldt Section 2 about 9:45 am and start the game of navigating the labyrinth of roots. I push the speed which ups the challenge. I first hiked this trail back in April, when a very young and eager elk chased me down the trail before I managed to scare it off. So I’ve got elk on the brain when I pass a pile of what looks like pretty fresh elk poop. I start my calls of “Hey elk, it’s me Lionheart.” The grand skunk cabbage plants have collapsed and are decomposing while mushrooms are popping up everywhere.
As the trail turns and gradually climbs a canyon, I start to warm up. I stop to remove my patagonia wind jacket and take a short pee and medication break. Just before 11 am, I have to climb through a downed alder to reach the look-out point. The waves are frothy and the air is filled with lots of misty moisture.
I push on past the look-out and like before, the trail has many blow downs and brush obstacles. Some holes have been pushed through which helps, but my speed is quite slow. I keep passing fresh piles of elk poop and call out to my elk friend who may or may not be nearby.
The trail descends the ridge front that slopes down towards a small no-name creeklet. I stop and eat a bar. I collect water and mix in electrolyte. I suck it down and make another to carry with me. I emerge on the bluff over the ocean and push through the low brush. All the water on the brush sheds onto my shoes and I can feel the dampness seeping in. I dance through the remaining brush that’s easier to dodge before arriving at the beach. I’m eager to warm up in the sun and hopefully dry my shoes a bit too.
When I was here in April, I made a left turn towards Mussel Point. But today, I turn right and head towards Gold Bluffs Beach. The waves crash loudly and fill the air with ocean spray. There’s a chance of sneaker waves so I keep a watchful eye. It’s about noon and I’m almost at the 13 mile mark. My 3+ mph speed has slowed considerably on the Skunk Cabbage Trail. But if I can maintain this pace, I can finish as darkness falls at 5 pm. There’s cell service out here so I send off a few messages.
I can see two figures approaching me on the beach. These are the first people I’ve seen all day. The two guys are carrying fishing poles and a bucket. Wow, I’m not sure where they started but it seems like a long way to walk for fish. We greet each other as we pass. I soon come to Major Creek where the tide is high enough that it is sweeps into the mouth of the creek. It looks like I’m going to have to get my feet wet but luckily when the tide washes out there’s just enough room for me cross. A little liquefaction happens under my steps but I cross easily enough.
As I approach the area where I will depart the beach, I am presented with my next challenge. There’s a no-name creek which has formed a lagoon-like body of water behind the dune edge. But the surf is high enough today that it is breaching the ocean edge of the lagoon. If I proceed, I will have to hike through the waves crashing onto the lagoon’s edge. I decide to explore the southern edge of the lagoon because it looks like there might be some logs that I can scramble across. Just past there, I can see cars driving by on Davison Road which is where I want to be. I manage to get onto the logs and luckily there are fixed in place and not just floating in the water. Just to be sure, I test each log before I transfer my weight onto it. I work my way across and bushwhack a short distance before arriving at the road’s edge about 12:30 pm.
I’m quite happy to have avoided getting my feet wet as I turn right onto Davison Road. I want to check out the Espa Lagoon but it would involve pushing through more wet brush so I turn around. I hike down the road and immediately pass through the Fern Canyon fee booth. I wave to the ranger sitting in the booth and climb back into the forest.
For the most part, the dirt road is peaceful. The occasional car comes by, driving too fast in my opinion. I watch them literally go around blind turns with no reduction in speed. I’ve never been on this part of the road and I’m surprised to see so much cutting.
Just after 1 pm, I reach the junction with the Streelow Creek Trail. I hiked this back in January as well so I daydream some more about finding my sit pad. I stop at a creeklet tributary to Streelow Creek for a snack, preemptive vitamin I, and some of my electrolyte water. I pass some raccoon tracks in the mud before rejoining the Davison Trail. The noise from Hwy 101 is much louder now than this morning.
Miles 18-20 seem to drag by but I’m back at Elk Prairie near the Prairie Creek Headquarters and Campground at 2pm. I had thought I might need to stop by my truck but I still have one bar and I’m good to go to push the last 6+ miles. I follow the Elk Prairie Trail to the far side of the prairie. I’ve always seen this trail from the road, but have never hiked this side.
I hike around the back side of park personnel buildings before crossing over Boyes Creek and turning right onto the Cathedral Trees Trail. It truly is a cathedral with many massive and complex redwoods towering far above.
The color of Fall is everywhere as the glowing sun starts to lower in the horizon. I meet a few people that are out hiking but otherwise the forest is quiet. When I arrived today, the Drury Parkway was closed at the entrance to the Park Headquarters. The forest is so peaceful that the roadway must still be closed. I fork left onto the Circle Trail to Big Tree Wayside and there are a few people there taking their pictures. I turn back on the Foothill Trail because I know there are restrooms at a nearby parking lot. The parking lot is empty but the bathrooms are open. I also take the opportunity to sit on the toilet lid and stretch out my left IT band.
I see no one else as I hike from Big Tree to the junction with Brown Creek Trail. Overall, I’m feeling better than a few miles ago (might be the ibuprofen). I eat my last bobo’s lemon poppyseed oat bar as I hike. I wash it down with my remaining electrolyte water. I crunch the numbers and know that I need maybe an extra mile, so I fork right onto the Brown Creek Trail.
I don’t know why, but the Brown Creek Trail is one of my favorites. I often hike up it just to take a break. Lovely little creek and rarely anyone there. I hike a ways until I see a nice place to sit for a break. I wrap a bandaid around a finger that won’t stop bleeding. I collect a bottle of water and drink it. I lay out my patagonia wind jacket and sit on it for four minutes. I get up, put on the jacket, sling my fanny pack around me and start hiking back just before 4 pm.
I cross the silent and empty Drury Parkway at 4:08 pm before turning left onto the Karl Knapp Trail. I’m feeling strong and push the tempo alongside Prairie Creek. Deep in the forest, the light wanes early. I flip my hat around, trying to get as much light as possible to my eyes. Just before 5 pm, I push forward without really being able to see the trail where my feet land. It feels like a miracle that the ground continues to be there even though I can’t see it.
I roll out of the trees and into Park Headquarters towards my truck. I still need a few tenths more so I fork away from the bathrooms and back into the darkness on the Redwood Access Trail. I connect to the Revelation Trail and circle through before heading back to my truck. As I walk up to my truck, my watch clicks past 26.2. miles just seconds before exactly 10 hours on trail.
I’m able to get into the bathroom just before they start cleaning. I change out of my bra and top and bundle up in layers. The layer of misty fog has returned to Elk Prairie and with the exception of a few people, it’s as deserted as when I arrived this morning. I pull out of the park eating chips and drinking gatorade. I try not to let the annoyance of getting run off the road multiple times deter me reveling in the beautiful day and the eyelash sliver of moon glowing over the lagoons. Looks like I missed a stellar sunset.
Route Summary:
I tried to pick a route that would have minimal elevation change but that would also have some entertainment value. Most of the route was known to me but I still did some sections that I’d never hiked before. Even while trying to keep the elevation gain to a minimum, I still climbed 2,812 ft. over the marathon.
Prairie Creek Headquarters parking lot south through campground to Davison Trail
Davison Trail to Trillium Falls Trailhead
Entire Trillium Falls Loop
Right on Davison Trail to Hwy 101
South on Hwy 101 shoulder
Right on Robinson Road to Skunk Cabbage Trailhead
Full Skunk Cabbage Trail to Davison Road/Gold Bluffs Beach Road
Right on Davison Road to Streelow Creek Trail
Left on Davison Trail
Right on Elk Prairie Trail
Right on Cathedral Trees Trail
Left on Circle Trail to Big Tree Wayside
Right on Foothill Trail
Right on Brown Creek Trail
Continue left on Brown Creek Trail
Backtrack Brown Creek Trail to Drury Parkway
Karl Knapp Trail to Park Headquarters
I needed a little extra so circled Redwood Access and Revelation Trails
Journey Return 