Journey Return

Wednesday, May 14
Lima to Cusco, Peru
1.28 miles
431′ ascent
378′ descent

After 4 flights and 24 hours of travel, I touch down in Cusco. I make a quick trip to the baño where you have to grab a square of toilet paper from the small dispenser at the door. It’s a small airport and my checked bag arrives quickly. I walk out the front of the airport and there are no cars for pickup. It turns out that today is a national day of protest regarding all jobs and wages. The gates to the airport are locked and no taxis or cars are allowed inside for pickup. I do wonder what happened to the people who’s day it is to visit Machupicchu.

I start the short trek towards the airport gates pulling behind me my one carry-on and one checked luggage bag. I am immediately out of breath as I huff and puff up the slight incline. Cusco’s elevation is logged as 11,152 feet. But the steep, terraced hillsides climb up and away from the city center. There is a large crowd of tour operators and I’m greeted by Elizabeth and her daughter Luna. Elizabeth and her husband Ronnie are the owners of the company Mountain Gods Peru.

Elizabeth and Ronnie are Quechua and local to the Cuzco region. Elizabeth is from mountainous Chinchero and Ronnie is from the jungle north of Machupicchu. They met while studying tourism at university. It can be challenging to sort through all the tour companies and make sure that you’re supporting a 100% local Peruvian company, so I was delighted when I found them. A lot of the companies that come up first in the google searches and claim to be Peruvian are usually owned by maybe a Peruvian and definitely a foreign individual.

My luggage is loaded into the car and we start to weave through the streets towards the San Blas part of Cusco. There is a large police force out guarding virtually empty streets. Some roads are like streets but most, according to American standards, are more like alleys. We dodge cars and perritos (dogs) and soon pull up at a small building. My hotel is Muru Homely Hotel. I had done a bunch of research trying to find a room with a balcony and there were not many cost effective options. Muru was on my short list before I asked Ronnie which hotels they recommend. To my delight, Muru is a hotel they often work with and I booked directly with the hotel for an multi-night discount. Six nights over my 2+ weeks in Peru.

I’m warmly welcomed with a cup of coca tea. Elizabeth recommends that I spend the rest of the day relaxing and maybe walk up the hill to explore a few archaeological sites. Luna, who has opened a bag of m&m’s offers me a few that she has been sorting on the surface of the lobby sofa. Elizabeth and I review my dietary restrictions and schedule for tomorrow before she leaves. Even though it’s about 10 am, they have a room ready for me. I elevator up to the third floor to find a wonderfully welcoming room.

The sun beams in and I am restored by the fresh air balcony. Bird song floats out of the green space plazoleta lucrepata. The merlin app has a limited Peruvian database but identifies a Chiguanco Thrush and a Sparkling Violetear. The thrush lands just below me for a photo opp and the violetear, which is a hummingbird, remains illusive.

I’m dazed from all the travel and it’s hard to decide what to do first. But somehow I manage to get my suitcases open and find clean clothes and my toiletries. This is the first time that I’ve traveled with short hair and it still seems fresh and hasn’t developed the usual travel greasiness. I do feel a bit lightheaded but I don’t know if it’s from the elevation or from the travel. It does seem to be from my inner ear balance issues that arise after long flights. After a shower, I lay down for a nap and sleep several hours.

Just before 4pm, I decide I better get up and explore a bit. I can’t just sit in my hotel room all day. There are the archaeology sites but I do feel a little nervous wondering around. I very slowly climb the stairs to the top floor which is the restaurant and where the buffet breakfast is served. It has a great view of Cusco plus I can see tourists up at the archaeology sites. This gives me a boost of confidence and I head out.

With slow, measured steps I follow cobble roadways up the hill. There are tourists speaking Spanish but also locals just hanging out and walking dogs. La Huaca Pachatosa, known as “Round Table” was a ceremonial center of the Wallas, ancient inhabitants of the Cusco valley. They came from the town Payatusan, where sacrifices were burned and offerings made to their deities. It was adopted by the Incas as a sacred place. Several burials, coca leaves and other ritual elements have been found.

I cross another cobble road and find a sign for The Caves of Mosoqllaqta. The caves symbolize a link with Uku Pacha (inner world). They are considered points of origin of life as well as connection portals between the earthly world and the underworld. I continue climbing next to a rushing canal of water before the caves reveal themselves.

There’s a bench with markings in Spanish and Quechua city markings. A beautiful spot to catch your breath. I explore uphill a bit farther but then decide to retrace my steps. I feel like it would be so easy to get lost.

I arrive back at Muru Hotel about 5 pm and spend some time enjoying the balcony and setting sun. I boil some water in my “kitchen” and have oatmeal, peanut butter and extra sharp cheddar cheese for dinner. I explore the TV options for a while before falling asleep early.