Journey Return

Copied from Peak Planet’s 10 Day Lemosho Route Description
Rewritten from actual experiences for dates: January 13 – 22, 2019

DAY 1

Peak Planet:
Try to arrive at your lodge in Moshi before 3 PM the day before your climb. With prior arrangement, an airport pick-up to your lodge is available from Kilimanjaro International Airport (JRO), or simply make your own way by taxi. We will gather in the afternoon for a pre-climb briefing and an equipment check. We will also confirm you have the appropriate mandatory medical coverage and travel insurance.

Rewrite:
Try to arrive at your lodge by 3 PM the day before you start your climb. Better yet, arrive the day before because customs might take so long that people will think that you’ve gone missing. Besides, why not give yourself an extra day to deal with the jet lag? Save yourself the hassle of trying to negotiate a taxi and definitely arrange your airport pickup from JRO to your lodge prior to arrival. Because even when they think you’ve gone missing, they will still be there to pick you up. Gather in the afternoon at your lodge for a pre-climb briefing and gear check. Be prepared for serious gear scrutiny and to save room in your duffel if you’ve rented a sleeping bag.

DAY 2

Peak Planet:
After completing the necessary registration formalities at Londorossi National Park gate, we drive through varied farmland with open views over the plains to reach the Lemosho trailhead. We often have our lunch in the glades before starting to walk. It is an easy day of walking up a small path through the beautiful and lush forest. This area has a variety of game, including buffalo. We camp at Lemosho Forest Camp (8,700 ft).

Rewrite:
After two hours on a bus you arrive at the Londorossi Gate and officially sign into Kilimanjaro National Park. You will eat a big box lunch as the rain starts to downpour. If you’re suddenly questioning your gear choices there’s a street vending entrepreneur selling gear like gloves and backpack rain covers. You get back on the bus and you might think you’re headed back to Moshi, but the bus makes a left turn and flies up the muddy mountain road to the Lemosho Gate. If you break out your umbrella and rain skirt, people might laugh at you. It’s an easy day of walking except that you’ll be walking the slowest you’ve ever walked which makes it seem harder than it really is. The rain forest is beautiful and lush but also hot and humid. Whether or not it’s raining, you’ll be soaked. This area has a variety of animals including black-and-white colobus monkeys. Watch out where you pee because there are stinging nettles that will make you think you’ve been stung by a swarm of bees. After at least three hours of hiking, you camp at the Lemosho Forest Camp (8,700 ft). Because you are in a rain forest, don’t be surprised if it pours all night long.

DAY 3

Peak Planet:
We soon leave the forest behind and enter the moorland zone of giant heather. The trail climbs steadily with wide views to reach the rim of the Shira Plateau. There is a tangible sense of wilderness, especially if afternoon mists come in! We camp in the center of the plateau at Shira One (11,600 ft).

Rewrite:
Don your rain gear again before leaving the rain forest behind and entering the moorland zone of giant heather. The roller coaster trail climbs steadily as you lumber pole pole up and over volcanic boulder trail. You’re treated to wide views as you reach the rim of the Shira Plateau. While descending slightly into Shira One Camp (11,600 ft), have your rain gear ready for the afternoon showers. Enjoy a warm lunch and spend the afternoon relaxing in your tent, as long as your air mattress stays inflated. Plan for an afternoon acclimatization hike and possible clear, sunny views of Kibo.

DAY 4

Peak Planet:
An easy day to help acclimatization and to explore the volcanic rock formations of Shira Plateau. We walk to the summit of Shira Cathedral (12,800 ft) before reaching the next camp at Shira Hut (12,600 ft). This campsite has stunning views, close to the glaciated dome of Kibo and the jagged rim of Shira Plateau. The views from here of Mt. Meru floating on the clouds are simply unforgettable.

Rewrite:
Aching hips talk to you as you slowly climb towards the edge of Shira Plateau. Meander through the volcanic rock formations before realizing that Shira Cathedral (12,800 ft) is a tall spire along an exposed ridge line far above you. Push through the wind and celebrate your arrival! Follow the ridge line towards Shira II Camp (12,600 ft) and see if you can make it before the afternoon rains descend. And, with any luck you won’t have the shits! If it’s not raining all afternoon, there are stunning views of the glaciated dome of Kibo and the jagged rim of Shira Plateau. Keep an eye out for a break in the weather and potential crepuscular rays showcasing Mt. Meru.

DAY 5

Peak Planet:
A morning of gentle ascent and panoramic views, leaving the moorland plateau behind to walk on lava ridges beneath the glaciers of the Western Breach. After lunch near the Lava Tower (15,150 ft), we descend to the bottom of the Barranco Valley to camp at Barranco Camp (12,800 ft), sheltered by towering cliffs and with extensive views of the plains far below.

Rewrite:
The porters will gather, introducing themselves through song just as the sun peaks out from behind Mt. Kilimanjaro. It’s a morning of gentle ascent and panoramic views all the way up to Lava Tower (15,150 ft). Make sure you’re wearing layers that easily unzip because you may go from blistering sun straight into the clouds. Marvel at the hot lunch on real plates as you lounge in comfortable chairs. Throw your rain gear on before you start your descent into Barranco Valley. Boulder hop down a water drainage until the giant Senecio trees transport you to Jurassic World. When the clouds clear at the sheltered Barranco Camp (12,800 ft), take the opportunity to wash your face with the provided warm water. Maybe even brush your hair too while you admire the towering cliffs and plains far below.

DAY 6

Peak Planet:
A steep climb up the Barranco Wall leads us to an undulating trail on the south-eastern flank of Kibo, with superb vistas of the Southern Icefields. The terrain changes to scree, with pockets of lush vegetation in sheltered hollows, and there is only a short distance to our camp at Karanga Camp (13,100 ft), the last water point on the way to the summit.

Rewrite:
Take your guides hand crossing the icy stream before glancing up at the rock wall before you. Hand off your poles and climb hand over hand up the Barranco Wall. Be prepared for a few pointers about your hiking skills otherwise you may end up in tears. Celebrate topping the wall and take your jumping for joy picture with sunny Mt. Meru as a backdrop. Follow the undulating trail on the south-eastern flank of Kibo as each descent, and subsequent ascent become progressively steeper. With Karanga Camp (13,100 ft) nearly straight above you, stand in awe as porters carry water from the sheltered drainage not only to Karanga, but also up to the next camp, Barafu. Once at camp, leave immediately for an acclimatization hike. Bask in the sunny afternoon as clouds hang above you on Kibo. Don’t forget to look carefully for the arch at the base of Kibo and watch the lights of far away Moshi twinkle in the night.

DAY 7

Peak Planet:
We follow an easy path on compacted scree with wide views that gains altitude unrelentingly to reach the Barafu Hut (14,800 ft) for lunch. There is a short acclimatization walk to the plateau at the bottom of the southeast valley. The remainder of the day is spent resting in preparation for the early morning final ascent.

Rewrite:
You’re treated to big views following an easy path on compacted scree as you unrelentingly gain altitude. There’s a flurry of activity at Barafu Camp (15,330 ft) as camps are simultaneously set up and broken down. Cheers ring out from those returning from a successful summit. Eat as much as you can for lunch before getting a summit gear check. As hail pummels your tent, spend the afternoon resting in preparation for the early morning final ascent. Eat an early dinner and then lie restlessly in your tent until the 11pm wake up call.

DAY 8

Peak Planet:
We start our ascent by headlamp about 1 a.m. so that we can be up on the crater rim by sunrise. The steep climb over loose volcanic scree has some well-graded zig-zags and a slow but steady pace will take us to Stella Point (18,800 ft), in about five or six hours. We will rest there for a short time to enjoy the sunrise over Mawenzi. Those who are still feeling strong can make the two-hour round trip from here along the crater rim to Uhuru Peak (19,341 ft), passing close to the spectacular glaciers and ice cliffs that still occupy most of the summit area. The descent to Barafu is surprisingly fast, and after some refreshments, we continue to descend to reach our final campsite, Millenium Camp (12,500 ft).

Rewrite:
Start your ascent by headlamp no later than midnight in your assigned numerical spot in line. The steep climb over loose volcanic scree, while in the wash of your headlamp light, puts you in a trance so you don’t know how long you’ve been hiking. Your personal summit porter gets your water out for you at frequent water breaks and helps you out of and into your cumbersome gloves every time you have to pee. At some point you’re told to open your mouth as a mystery powder is poured in. The sky lightens just before you reach Stella Point (18,885 ft). You are hiking in the clouds so there is no real sunrise. Enjoy the gentle gradient to Uhuru Peak (19,341 ft) before snapping your celebratory photos. The descent to Barafu is surprisingly fast as you virtually ski down through the churned volcanic soil. You will meet your porters ascending from Barafu with the best tasting juice ever! Rest in you tent briefly before lunch and more hiking. Dress accordingly to descend out of the snow and into the rains at your final campsite, Millenium Camp (12,500 ft). Struggle over tip amounts and then dance with the porters after the tipping ceremony.

DAY 9

Peak Planet:
A sustained descent on a well-constructed path takes us through a lovely tropical forest alive with birdsong and boasting lush undergrowth with considerable botanical interest. Our route winds down to the Kilimanjaro National Park gate at Mweka (5,400 ft); and on through coffee and banana farms to Mweka village, where we are transferred to your lodge in Moshi.

Rewrite:
Your sustained descent goes from volcanic boulder trail to well-constructed mud path as you enter tropical forest dripping with lush undergrowth and birdsong. Despite your quickened pace, porters fly past you with light loads. The route winds down to the Kilimanjaro National Park gate at Mweka (5,400 ft) where you may stand in line for hours before you can officially get signed out of the park. You could get your boots washed or buy souvenirs but you were told not to bring any money. Drive through coffee and banana farms on your way back to Moshi where the heat feels unbearable. Stop for lunch before returning to your lodge. Bring big bills for the tip otherwise you may be there for hours while all the tip money gets counted and counted again. Enjoy a celebratory beer and make sure not to crack your knee open going up the lodge stairs. Have one last joyous dinner with your group.

DAY 10

Peak Planet:
After breakfast, we can arrange for a private transfer or taxi to Kilimanjaro International Airport (JRO).

Rewrite:
Awake at 5am to repack your gear for safari before having breakfast at 6:30am.Your private safari leaves at 7am and you get to go see countless elephants and maybe even a lion too.