Journey Return

Monday, September 9
Wonderland Trail Day #6
Start: Sunrise Camp
Stop: Nickel Creek 
21.34 miles
4,527′ ascent
7,427′ descent 

I awake a few minutes before my 5:30 am watch alarm. I do my normal morning routine and shuffle out of my tent before 6 am. I empty my tent and stuff it all back into my pack in its exact order. I point myself in the direction of the slight breeze and put my hair up in a ponytail. Wait! I’m pointed to the West. Could it be that the winds have shifted overnight? I grab my food bag from the bear locker and hit the trail by 6:25 am.

As I emerge from the trees there is a beautiful sunrise painting the clear sky. I am full of joy and happily greet the deer hanging out on the trail. I’m so grateful to have camped high at Sunrise because my first choice of White Creek is down in the fog-laden valley. Tahoma is glowing in the morning rays and I feel like celebrating!

After about a mile, I reach a junction and turn right downhill. I drop down through the forest for the next hour. I descend nearly 2,100 ft. before I take a short standing breakfast break. I collect water and make my coffee mocha drink. Stuff in a nature valley peanut butter bar and it’s time to crush some miles. I meander through the White River campground before hitting a log bridge across the White River.

I can hear the din of the road as I speed down pristine, well-manicured trail. I follow the White River downstream until turning up Fryingpan Creek. After a short sitting break, I start to climb more steeply. A few day hikers are out and one passes me. I cross a series of log bridges before switchbacking up to Summerland.

I pass up a little creek for a break because the day hiker is sitting there. I push up the steps and find another little creek. I’m super stoked to have 10.5 miles by 11 am. Hell yes! Elevenses is my king size snickers bar, ice cold electrolyte water and the last swig of my coffee. I sit in the sun as two sets of day hikers come by. An older couple asks if I have come from Panhandle Gap but I confirm that I’m actually headed that direction. Just as I get back on trail, a ranger is headed towards me. It’s an elderly volunteer ranger who stays at Summerland Camp. He doesn’t ask for my permit but makes sure I know there’s no water between Indian Bar and Nickel Creek.

I start the climb towards Panhandle Gap past Meany Crest and no name glacial lakes. The trail winds through the rocks making me unsure of which gap I will actually crest. In true trail suspense, once I reach the wall in front of me, I turn to the right and climb some more.

After 3,000 ft. of climbing, I top out on Wonderland Trail’s high point, 6,800 ft. Panhandle Gap. A friendly day hiker offers to take my picture. It’s so clear that Mt. Adams and Mt. Hood are visible to the South.

Photo on left, looking back towards Panhandle Gap. Photo on right, trail headed clockwise.

I follow a slight rise in the trail that brings me to the edge of another little descent. I pause at the top while I snap a few pictures. “Lionheart” once again rings out across the rocks. I shout “What?!” in disbelief. I yell “Ledgy” and trot down to where she is taking a break on a very ledge-like rock. (Zoom in and find Ledgy!) I thought for sure Ledge Girl would be far ahead since she started the day at White Creek. I hadn’t planned to stop already, but grab my water bottle and join her. We chat for about 40 minutes about how incredible this day is and how blessed we feel. We talk about how her shoes have no tread and I confirm that’s next level badass. I actually started this trail with new shoes and I’m so grateful. But damn, they look like they’ve hiked 400 miles already. Ledge Girl tells me that there was no food in the hiker box at White River Backpacker Camp. Thank goodness I pushed my resupply yesterday! About 1:30 pm I say I need to push on since I still have at least nine more miles to Nickel Creek. And she has to get to Olallie Lake tonight which is 1.4 miles off Wonderland. I suggest we do a selfie and we get one with Mt. Adams standing tall in the background.

I think a lot about this day and this moment and I really can’t connect with the exact words. Even Ledge Girl commented about being in tears atop Panhandle Gap and I feel it too. It’s in these moments that the English language seems to fail us. I can’t truly describe how incredible and amazing this day is. We’ve been shrouded in smoke and it cleared for some of the most spectacular trail. The trail gods are most definitely looking out for us!

I start the long descent to Indian Bar. I pass several climbing hikers who look pushed to their max. As I work my way down the 1,700 ft. descent one of my left quad muscles really starts to hurt. I have to make a conscience effort to hit the top of the giant steps with my right foot so that my right leg can lower me down. As I approach Indian Bar I pass two women who I hear say “we knew what we were in for.” At the time, I was thinking thank god I don’t have to climb this. But in retrospect, climbing is always better than descending. As I come into Indian Bar Camp, I know I have to get water. There’s an older man on the other side of the Ohanapecosh River cleaning himself. Either I go upstream from him or I get water from the little tributary to the side. Zoom in if you want to see him. I opt for the easy collect and then cross over the Wauhaukaupauken Falls.

I climb over 1,000 ft. out of Indian Bar and although my left quad hurts, I can climb without too much trouble. Other than being weary I am ok. Tahoma is moody and shrouded in clouds and putting on a show.

I stop for a sitting break atop a step at 4 pm. I inhale a bar and electrolyte water and I still have 5 miles to go. My energy levels are dipping and I must engage my mental strength. With my Inreach, I message my friend Erin who responds with a supportive “5 miles sounds like nothing now.” I get up, turn my back on Tahoma and trace the divide until I re-enter the forest.

At 5:20 pm I message Erin that I have 3 miles and over 2,000 ft. down to go. “You got this” powers me forward as it becomes increasingly hard to walk. I can no longer use my left leg to hold my weight on downward steps. It’s actually easier to run downhill than to walk. My reality becomes blurred by pain as I move downhill as quickly as possible. All I know is that I eventually arrive at a little trickle of water just before Nickel Creek. I take the time to investigate and there’s one little spot where I can collect water.

The water is ice cold and wonderful. I fill all my bottles and take the time to wipe down with my quick dry towel. Feeling refreshed, I trace the trail into camp about 6:30 pm and, as the last to camp, I find that no one wanted campsite #1. There’s a second spot towards the back and I squeeze my tent in. I put on clean underwear, sprinkle some magic powder into my base layers and put on deodorant. I’m smelling so trailhead fresh that the bears might come and eat me tonight.

I try to send Inreach messages but the forest canopy is too thick. Dinner is a bit of a buffet and I eat my fill of chips, nuts, bars and candy orange slices. It’s dark by the time I remember that I didn’t take a picture of my campsite. My left quad is TIGHT and I stretch it out repeatedly on a giant wooden round. It doesn’t hurt but it’s tight. I’m late to bed and buzzing from the day. I indulge in a little calming music.