Journey Return

Tuesday, May 27
Start: Laguna Pucacocha 15,265′ (4652m)
Via: 7 Lakes Route
Via: Pacchanta 14,210′ (4331m)
Stop: Cusco 11,152′ (3399m)
4.2 miles
146′ ascent
1,165′ descent

All the afternoon relaxation yesterday makes it hard to fall asleep and I toss and turn for quite a while. I make my nightly trek to the toilet tent and crunch through the thin layer of hail that now blankets the ground.

Because we have a short day of hiking, the morning schedule is more relaxed and I don’t have to wake up until 5:30 am. I emerge from my tent just after 6 am to find the sun already starting its descent into the valley. The layer of hail persists and thinly blankets the surrounding area. We have breakfast at 6:30 am before departing just after 7 am.

We pass several small lakes with signs before reaching the large Anqas Qocha. Ch’uño Qocha, China Uturunku Qocha or Female Jaguar Lake, Orqo Uturunku Qocha or Male Jaguar Lake. Remember that ch’uño or chuño are Andean freeze-dried potatoes made through natural processes which Elizabeth explained to me on the Salkantay Trek.

We pass an alpaca farm/homestead that has lots of smoke billowing from the house as we arrive at Anqas Qocha or Blue Lake. There are some birds hanging out on the water on the opposite side of the lake but luckily, they aren’t affecting the glass-like conditions producing a perfect reflection.

The northern viscacha are hanging out on top of the rocks trying to warm themselves in the morning sun. And I manage to photograph a Mountain caracara, a bird of prey in the Falcon family, searching for some morning snacks.

Above: Looking back towards the Cordillera Vilcanota range.
Below: Looking across a lagoon whose water source is flowing from Anqas Qocha.

Above: Watch the alpaca headed out to graze.
Below: Looking down Pacchanta Valley

As we hike down along the side of the Pacchanta River, day trip tourists appear and are huffing and puffing their way up the 7 Lakes Route. Many tourists are also riding horses which is a bit of an amusing sight as they try to manage their new ride. We pass more alpaca farms whose pens are marked by rock borders.

We even pass some Suri alpaca with some very new born babies. Suri alpaca have long, stringy dreadlock-type wool. The predominant alpaca breed is Huacaya while Suri alpaca comprise only about 10% of the worldwide alpaca population. Look for the babies which are wearing green and blue plastic wraps to help keep them warm.

Poblado de Pacchanta – Pacchanta Village

Above: The sign reads Bienvenidos a nuestra comunidad Pacchanta – Welcome to our Pacchanta Community

We arrive to Pacchanta about 10 am and the community is bustling with construction noise. There are buildings going up and roads being built. We wander around a little bit searching for our team and pass a place called Michi House. In Quechua, michi is an affectionate way to refer to a cat. We eventually make our way to Hotel Ausangate and our team arrives not long after. Hotel Ausangate also has nicely made hot spring pools. In the picture below, you can see the pools but also the road construction happening in the background.

I get out my thin sleeping pad and sit on it under my umbrella. I have a few fruit roll ups left over and I give them to a small child who is walking by with his mother. Soon, our van backs in and some gear gets loaded. It’s Raul, the same driver that delivered us to trail five days ago. While making lunch, the crew sets up the table and chairs. Ronnie and I have lunch together, seated on a little patch of green near the van. After the dishes are washed, all remaining gear gets loaded into the van and it’s time to say goodbye to Helario. We have a little tipping ceremony and I thank everyone for all their hard work and taking such good care of me. Helario has a several hour horse ride back to his home which is closer to where we started in Upis.

L-R: Julio, Helario, me and Ronnie. As best I understand, Hilario calls the darker horse Coli and the lighter horses seem to both be called Vicuña. It’s just after 1 pm when we depart on the drive back to Cusco. It’s quite clear today and there are snow-capped mountains visible in all directions.

In Cusco, I check back into Muru Homely Hotel and get another room with a balcony. The air is a bit hazy but you can see Apu Ausangate towering in the distance. Kinda ironic that this is the clearest view of Ausangate that I’ve had the whole time I’ve been here.

I shower and refresh myself before heading up to the restaurant about 6 pm for a celebration pisco sour. I sit sipping my wonderfully frothy pisco while looking out across the sunset glowing Cusco. What an amazing two weeks this has been! Salud! Pisco sours are a Peruvian tradition made from grape brandy, lime juice, simple syrup, egg white, and bitters. The hiker hunger is real and I give in to the temptation of a hamburger and fries.

I look through my pictures and send out some messages before falling asleep about 10 pm.