Journey Return

Wednesday, September 16
Start: Avalon
Stop: Black Jack Campground
Unceded land of the Tongva peoples
11.49 miles
3159’ ascent
1732’ descent

The alarm goes off at 5 am and I snooze it for 10 minutes while I slowly wake up. We depart at 6 am and arrive at the San Pedro Ferry Building about 7:30 am. Boarding starts about 8:35 am and luckily we are able to get on the ferry before the giant group of high school students. I have to laugh a little since I’m on a hiking ‘vacation’ and I’m still surrounded by high schoolers. There is a spacious nook next to the window seat where my modified backpack and sleeping bag stuff sac fit.

A SPECIAL NOTE ABOUT THE CATALINA FERRY. If your backpack is over 12″ x 12″ x 24″ then you have to check it. When boarding you set your gear or luggage on the dock and then it gets loaded into the hull of the boat. I was not keen on the idea of possibly having my backpack crushed by other packs or luggage, so I packed what I could inside my backpack and my uncle put my umbrella and trekking poles inside his protective duffel. The key to making that work for me was that you can carry on your sleeping bag separately. I also added some electronics to my small sleeping bag stuff sac. Bottom line, make sure you closely review the baggage guidelines and prepare accordingly.

We quickly bounce our way across the Pacific to the Avalon Harbor, arriving about 10:15 am. My uncle retrieves his checked duffel and we stop at the first table we find to organize our gear. Mostly it’s just me since my uncle’s backpack was completely packed inside his duffel. I pretty much have to yard sale everything but at least I know how I like to load my backpack.

I don’t get a chance to check out Avalon as we immediately start hiking and point ourselves in the direction of Hermit Gulch. The first half mile of the TCT goes straight through Avalon so it’s fun to see the golf carts and the sunroom porches on the front of many homes.

We find a water spigot near the fire station and I fill up with one liter. There’s quite a few water sources today so there’s no need to carry a lot. I tighten my shoes and then we’re off. We stop at the Catalina Island Conservancy Nature Center and I find a TCT hat that actually fits my head well so I add the weight to my pack. They also have really nice restrooms which saves a stop at Hermit Gulch Campground that is just across the street.

At the back side of Hermit Gulch we make a right turn and start climbing just before noon. Flowering Prickly pear cacti, Malosma, Sugar Bush and Buckwheat dot the trail’s edge. It’s cloudy enough so that the sun is not on full blast. And yet I am sweating so much that I have to periodically wipe the sting out of my eyes.

The 1,200 ft. climb takes about an hour as the trail tops out at almost 1,500 feet. There is a shaded gazebo and a rock wall to sit on. I suck down 3/4 of a liter of electrolyte water to replace the salt castles that have formed along my skin. I eat two of my prepared mini tortilla warps with salami and cheese and nacho cheese doritos. I finish it all off with a perfectly warmed rice krispies treat just as a man dressed all in white comes up the trail. He’s either just naturally a speedy talker or he’s trippin’ out on acid. He dumps a bunch of info on us in a very short period of time and then shares that he’s got to catch the 4pm ferry. He doesn’t have a map or really know where he’s headed. I check my map and tell him to keep forking left and he should get back to Avalon. We’ll never know if acid ghost made it.

We fork right on Divide Road and follow the ridgeline for almost two miles. Avalon has become just a tiny cove off in the distance. The clouds hang around and assist with the cooling effect.

At 2 pm we drop off of the ridgeline to a park with a playground, restrooms and a water fountain. I have a good laugh over the desert command jeep and try to convince uncle to do a photo op. The wind blows the water in all directions at the fountain which makes for an entertaining game. I do manage to fill most of my bottle without getting my shoes too wet. The Red-breasted nuthatches quickly swoop in to make use of the water that ended up on the ground.

The trail departs from the park along the Haypress Reservoir. I see either a Great blue heron or a Grey heron sitting on a small island covered in hyacinth as the strong aroma of vinegarweed pierces my nostrils.

We climb back to the ridge and have views of the Pacific on the East side of Catalina before turning again to the interior. We spot one American bison in the distance and the feeling of loneliness is present. There are other little treats along the trail like Coastal golden bush and prickly pear fox poop.

We descend the rolling terrain to Middle Ranch Road, arriving at 3:45 pm. Although I had seen a headline recently about deer being killed on Catalina Island, I’m a bit surprised to see this brand new sign saying that weapons were in use and that the trail was closed after dark. What if you miscalculated your hiking time or the required hiking effort and arrived to camp late? And how is the TCT not safe but Black Jack Campground is safe since the trail goes right through camp?

Thoughts of the deer and wondering what the bright orange sign really means weigh me down as I climb out of the canyon. While climbing the steep trail, I decide to take a water break at the top. As I crest the ridge, I can see uncle down at a covered table so I descend the short distance for a break. I spot a trail magic cooler and it’s filled with bottles of ice cold water. Wow, thank you so much! Icy water and a granola bar are just what I need to hike the last two miles Black Jack Campground.

The wind is pulling at us just enough that we’re getting cold, so it’s time to get moving. In the distance is Black Jack Mountain and a grove of trees which must be Black Jack Campground.

We hike down and back up Cape Canyon which is filled with Island Scrub Oaks and pensive ravens. I record a gopro video as I walk through the oaks and the cord on my umbrella hangs me up until I can maneuver myself free.

The acorn woodpeckers serenade us as we arrive at Site 1 at Black Jack Campground about 5:15 pm. Site 1 is the lowest spot at the campground and fairly secluded. No one is camped at Site 2 so it feels like we have the whole place to ourselves. I set up my tent so that my feet are pointing slightly uphill. I unload my backpack into my tent and then it’s time to change out of my sweaty bra and shirt. I emerge from my tent dry and warm, grateful that I didn’t leave my alpaca hoodie behind at home. My stomach growls and I’m ready for dinner. I eat more salami and cheese tortilla wraps. Instant oatmeal with blueberries and pineapple that had been warm soaking to perfection all day in the large outer pocket of my backpack. More doritos, a rice krispies treat and a couple orange slices for dessert. Yum!

Just before sunset, we head up to explore the rest of the campground, searching for toilets and water. The water spigot at Site 5 sprays in a wide pattern so it’s another challenging game to get water into my narrow Smart water bottles. The acorn woodpeckers are watching from the adjacent outdoor shower and I feel like they are laughing at me. The poor-tasting water comes out of the pipe super warm. Ugh. Hopefully it will cool overnight. As I walk back down to Site 1, I see two mule ear does and a fawn skirting the edge of the campground. Just before I get into my tent about 7:30 pm, Catalina Island fox friend calmly comes through camp doing its nightly rounds and marking its territory.

After doing nightly chores in my tent, I put in earbuds and listen to music until 9 pm. At 9:02 pm I hear a loud, nearby gunshot. My heart skips a beat as my stomach clenches tight. Just after the gunshot, the whizzing sound of a drone rises out of the East. The drone moves South towards Cape Canyon but then comes straight for Black Jack Campground, flying directly over us and the entire camp. The drone continues to move through Cape Canyon with flashing red and green lights as I toss and turn. I hear another gunshot not long after 10 pm and I quiet my breathing to listen closely. I spend the next two hours trying to fall asleep despite the continuous whine of the drone. The drone keeps circling between Cape Canyon and directly above the campground. About midnight I remember that I have earplugs with me. I dig them out and put them in. Even with earplugs, I awake at least another five times throughout the night. Each time I wake during the next five hours, I look out the mesh of my tent and see the flashing green and red lights of the drone(s) in Cape Canyon. What a long and miserable night.

POST TRIP:
I looked back through my emails and found one from the Catalina Island Company on August 21st, stating the following:
“Please be advised habitat restoration work is in progress:

As part of the Catalina Island Conservancy’s restoration work, hiking in portions of the Island will be suspended nightly from 90 minutes before sunset until 90 minutes after sunrise from September through October 2026.

The Trans-Catalina Trail and campgrounds will remain open. Hikers traveling during restricted hours should use primary roads, including Airport, El Rancho Escondido and Middle Ranch Roads, unless otherwise posted…”

In my opinion, if the Catalina Island Company and the Catalina Island Conservancy had been honest and transparent about the current conditions around Black Jack Campground, I would have chosen to not put myself in that horrific situation. This deceptive messaging is a huge risk to public safety and I wonder why there are only signs posted on the island interior and not at trailheads. Additionally, in my hiking experience, trail reroutes are always marked with topo maps showing the alternate route.